On this day … 2 June 1883

The ‘Our Ladies’ Column’ of the Preston Chronicle contained an item on the subject of ‘rational dress’ for women. Penelope, the Chronicle’s correspondent, had been to London to visit an exhibition of the ‘dresses of the future’ by the Rational Dress Society, formed two years earlier. Penelope was not impressed:

‘I must say, however, that I am not in any way tempted by what I saw to discard the time-honoured petticoat and take to any of the forms of attire which are supposed by the promoters of this exhibition to represent health, comfort and beauty.’

Penelope did not like the idea of the divided skirt, the costume promoted by the society to give women ‘freedom of movement’:

‘The main feature of the exhibition is, of course, the divided skirt, or under trowsers, draped over with a polonaise or sash like drapery … The fact of having frilled and furbelowed legs like a Cochin China fowl, exposed to the ridicule of all beholders, makes her costume in no respect healthier, easier or better.’

Penelope was, presumably, wedded to her bustle. She was also a strong believer in choosing clothing that would not check the skin’s:

‘… salutary efforts to get rid of all poison out of the blood by means of often insensible perspiration. If these matters be understood, and the hysteria, backaches, headaches, and worse maladies which inflict the most fashionable of our sex … I think the majority of women will be more likely to reform and adapt their dress to common sense …’

However, she did think the time had come for women to wear slightly shorter skirts:

‘Any woman who has a pretty foot and ankle need not be ashamed of it; indeed, I think there is a great deal too much fuss made about covering up legs.

‘For ordinary use, for walking in streets and country lanes, I think it is only necessary to shoe oneself sensibly and to have skirts which do not reach below the ankle, and are wide enough to allow full use of one’s legs … Thus attired I am sure a woman could walk as easily and spotlessly through any amount of mud, as her male escort clad in his distinguishing trousers.’

In many respects, she was fighting against the tide, for the illustration from an issue of the Young Ladies’ Journal pictured, also published in 1883, shows that the days of the confining Victorian dress were numbered.

Indeed, members of the Lady Cyclists’ Association, established in 1892 were quick to adopt the rational dress (see picture) as the perfect attire for cycling, the leisure activity that gave them ‘the greatest boon that has come to women for many a long day’.


Sources:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rational_Dress_Society
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lady_Cyclists%27_Association
https://www.girlmuseum.org/fashion-young-ladies-1883/


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